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Baby's breath
Gypsophila paniculata
Also known as : Common gypsophila
Baby's breath is commonly used by florists as a filler for bouquets, but it also works well as a backdrop for larger, more structured blooms like roses. This drought- and salt-tolerant perennial attracts butterflies. It has grown invasive in North America, posing a threat to native grasslands and open ecosystems.
Hardiness Zones
4 to 10
Care Guide for Baby's breath
How Often Should You Water Baby's breath?
Baby's breath doesn't require much watering as it thrives in dry soil. In general, you won't have to water Baby's breath if there has been sufficient rainfall. If the top 2 inches has completely dried out, then you can give it some water.
How Often Should You Fertilize Baby's breath?
Baby's breath often does very well when left alone provided it has the right soil. However, for plants that need some help, feed them monthly during the growing season using an all-purpose fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus.
What is the best time to Prune Baby's breath?
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
When is the Best Time to Repot Baby's breath?
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Questions About Baby's breath
Watering
Pruning
Sunlight
Temperature
Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Baby's breath?
When watering the Baby's breath, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Baby's breath comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Baby's breath too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Baby's breath, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Baby's breath, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Baby's breath have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Baby's breath. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Baby's breath grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Baby's breath is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Baby's breath?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Baby's breath needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Baby's breath outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Baby's breath can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Baby's breath need?
When it comes time to water your Baby's breath, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Baby's breath at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Baby's breath can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Baby's breath is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Baby's breath will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Baby's breath will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Baby's breath more water at this time.
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How should I water my Baby's breath through the seasons?
The Baby's breath will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Baby's breath will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Baby's breath indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Baby's breath indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Baby's breath to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Baby's breath very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Baby's breath
Attributes of Baby's breath
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Early spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Summer
Harvest Time
Spring, Fall
Plant Height
30 cm to 80 cm
Spread
61 cm to 91 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Gray
Silver
Flower Size
1 mm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Fruit Color
Black
Stem Color
Green
Blue
White
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
Symbolism
Purity, innocence and love
Usages
Garden Use
Baby's breath is renowned for its numerous fluffy, discretely fragrant white flowers; when in bloom, the entire plant looks like a white cloud when viewed from a distance. Ideal for perennial borders and popular as a cut flower, baby's breath is famously drought resistant and salt tolerant. As for wildlife, it attracts pollinating insects, but not deer.
Trivia and Interesting Facts
A favorite of florists and a typical plant found in flower arrangements, baby's breath makes a great filler. Its long-lasting blossoms outlast most other flowers. It is an excellent candidate for dried flowers. Simply hang the blossom upside down for a few days until dry. But be careful, it's reported to be mildly toxic to dogs and cat since the saponin and gyposenin cause irritation to the gastrointestinal tract.
Scientific Classification of Baby's breath
Phylum
Vascular plants
Class
Dicotyledons
Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies
Family
Pink
Genus
Baby's-breath
Species
Baby's breath
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Common Pests & Diseases About Baby's breath
Common issues for Baby's breath based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Distribution of Baby's breath
Habitat of Baby's breath
Dry sandy and stony places, steppe
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Baby's breath
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Baby's Breath Growth and Care
Feng shui direction
West
Baby's breath subtly enhances the energy dynamics in one's home. As a symbol of purity and enduring love, its presence aligns notably with the Feng Shui principles. When oriented towards West, a direction representing creativity and future children according to Feng Shui, it may invoke a gentle positive influence, although the exact impact is always subject to personal interpretation and other situational factors.
Lighting
Full sun
Baby's breath thrives under full daylight exposure, promoting healthy growth and flower formation. However, it also tolerates locations with somewhat less light availability. Excessive or insufficient light exposure, on the other hand, can lead to poor plant health. Originated in environments with ample sun exposure, baby's breath processes light effectively at all growth stages.
Temperature
0 41 ℃
Baby's breath is native to temperate regions and prefers warm conditions. The ideal temperature range for growth is 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Depending on the season, adjustments to ambient temperature might be necessary to mimic its natural habitat.
Transplant
15-30 cm
For optimal growth, transplant baby's breath from mid-spring to mid-summer when temperatures are just right. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil, and water gently after transplanting, if needed. Enjoy watching baby's breath flourish with your thoughtful care!
Plants Related to Baby's breath
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False shamrock
False shamrock (Oxalis triangularis) is a native lobed perennial plant that grows throughout South America. The three-leaved shape gives this plant its name, but the leaves are also remarkable for their purple color. This color makes the false shamrock a popular ornamental plant for hanging baskets. This plant is edible but should be consumed only in small amounts due to the presence of oxalic acid.
Cherry plum
Cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera) is a deciduous small tree or shrub native to Southern Europe and Western Asia. It is one of the most common wild fruits of its native region, producing numerous rounded, yellow, red, or burgundy-colored sweet juicy fruit in summer and autumn. Cherry plum is also used as an ornamental tree and as rootstock for other Prunus species.
Siberian lily
The siberian lily (Lilium pensylvanicum) is a flowering plant native to Siberia, Mongolia, Korea, northeastern China, and Hokkaido in Japan. The original Latin name Lilium pensylvanicum by botanist John Bellenden Ker is misleading. Siberian lily is considered easy to grow. It is sensitive to drought conditions.
Angel's trumpet
Angel's trumpet is a showy and unique addition to any garden and is prized for its flowers which have a trumpet shape and a variety of colors including yellow, orange, white, pink, or red. Use extreme caution, however, as all parts of angel's trumpet are poisonous when ingested.
Sawtooth oak
Sawtooth oak (Quercus acutissima) is an Asian oak species that is native to China, Korea, Japan, Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia. Sawtooth oak wood can be used to make charcoal used in Japanese tea ceremonies.
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Baby's breath
Gypsophila paniculata
Also known as: Common gypsophila
Baby's breath is commonly used by florists as a filler for bouquets, but it also works well as a backdrop for larger, more structured blooms like roses. This drought- and salt-tolerant perennial attracts butterflies. It has grown invasive in North America, posing a threat to native grasslands and open ecosystems.
Hardiness Zones
4 to 10
Care Guide for Baby's breath
How Often Should You Water Baby's breath?
Baby's breath doesn't require much watering as it thrives in dry soil. In general, you won't have to water Baby's breath if there has been sufficient rainfall. If the top 2 inches has completely dried out, then you can give it some water.
How Often Should You Fertilize Baby's breath?
Baby's breath often does very well when left alone provided it has the right soil. However, for plants that need some help, feed them monthly during the growing season using an all-purpose fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus.
What is the best time to Prune Baby's breath?
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
What is The Best Soil Mix to Plant Baby's breath?
Loam, Sand, Chalky, Alkaline
When is the Best Time to Repot Baby's breath?
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
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Questions About Baby's breath
Watering
Pruning
Sunlight
Temperature
Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Baby's breath?
What should I do if I water my Baby's breath too much or too little?
How often should I water my Baby's breath?
How much water does my Baby's breath need?
How should I water my Baby's breath at different growth stages?
How should I water my Baby's breath through the seasons?
What's the difference between watering my Baby's breath indoors and outdoors?
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
Download the App
More Questions People Also Ask
Key Facts About Baby's breath
Attributes of Baby's breath
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Early spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Summer
Harvest Time
Spring, Fall
Plant Height
30 cm to 80 cm
Spread
61 cm to 91 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Gray
Silver
Flower Size
1 mm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Fruit Color
Black
Stem Color
Green
Blue
White
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
Gain more valuable plant knowledge
Explore a rich botanical encyclopedia for deeper insights
Download the App
Symbolism
Purity, innocence and love
Usages
Garden Use
Baby's breath is renowned for its numerous fluffy, discretely fragrant white flowers; when in bloom, the entire plant looks like a white cloud when viewed from a distance. Ideal for perennial borders and popular as a cut flower, baby's breath is famously drought resistant and salt tolerant. As for wildlife, it attracts pollinating insects, but not deer.
Trivia and Interesting Facts
A favorite of florists and a typical plant found in flower arrangements, baby's breath makes a great filler. Its long-lasting blossoms outlast most other flowers. It is an excellent candidate for dried flowers. Simply hang the blossom upside down for a few days until dry. But be careful, it's reported to be mildly toxic to dogs and cat since the saponin and gyposenin cause irritation to the gastrointestinal tract.
Scientific Classification of Baby's breath
Phylum
Class
Order
Family
Genus
Species
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Common Pests & Diseases About Baby's breath
Common issues for Baby's breath based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Disease
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More About the Disease
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Learn More About the Disease
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Disease
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Distribution of Baby's breath
Habitat of Baby's breath
Dry sandy and stony places, steppe
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Baby's breath
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Baby's Breath Growth and Care
Plants Related to Baby's breath
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False shamrock
False shamrock (Oxalis triangularis) is a native lobed perennial plant that grows throughout South America. The three-leaved shape gives this plant its name, but the leaves are also remarkable for their purple color. This color makes the false shamrock a popular ornamental plant for hanging baskets. This plant is edible but should be consumed only in small amounts due to the presence of oxalic acid.
Cherry plum
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Siberian lily
The siberian lily (Lilium pensylvanicum) is a flowering plant native to Siberia, Mongolia, Korea, northeastern China, and Hokkaido in Japan. The original Latin name Lilium pensylvanicum by botanist John Bellenden Ker is misleading. Siberian lily is considered easy to grow. It is sensitive to drought conditions.
Angel's trumpet
Angel's trumpet is a showy and unique addition to any garden and is prized for its flowers which have a trumpet shape and a variety of colors including yellow, orange, white, pink, or red. Use extreme caution, however, as all parts of angel's trumpet are poisonous when ingested.
Sawtooth oak
Sawtooth oak (Quercus acutissima) is an Asian oak species that is native to China, Korea, Japan, Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia. Sawtooth oak wood can be used to make charcoal used in Japanese tea ceremonies.
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Baby's breath thrives under full daylight exposure, promoting healthy growth and flower formation. However, it also tolerates locations with somewhat less light availability. Excessive or insufficient light exposure, on the other hand, can lead to poor plant health. Originated in environments with ample sun exposure, baby's breath processes light effectively at all growth stages.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Baby's breath thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your baby's breath may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Baby's breath enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Baby's breath thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Baby's breath is native to temperate regions and prefers warm conditions. The ideal temperature range for growth is 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Depending on the season, adjustments to ambient temperature might be necessary to mimic its natural habitat.
Regional wintering strategies
Baby's breath has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Baby's breath is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Baby's breath should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Baby's Breath?
For optimal growth, transplant baby's breath from mid-spring to mid-summer when temperatures are just right. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil, and water gently after transplanting, if needed. Enjoy watching baby's breath flourish with your thoughtful care!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Baby's Breath?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Baby's Breath?
Relocating baby's breath between the warmth of mid-spring and mildness of mid-summer is ideal as this period provides the optimal conditions for growth. Transplanting baby's breath in this timeframe helps ensure hearty growth, flowering and resilience. It's a win-win choice that sets up baby's breath for a robust life!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Baby's Breath Plants?
For baby's breath plants, it's ideal to allow a spacing of about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) between each plant. This will give them plenty of room to grow and ensure they receive adequate nutrients from the soil.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Baby's Breath Transplanting?
Baby's breath plants thrive in well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with a pH of 6.5-7.2. Prior to transplanting, mix in a slow-release granular fertilizer or well-aged compost to give your plants a nutrient-rich start in their new home.
Where Should You Relocate Your Baby's Breath?
Be sure to transplant your baby's breath plants in a sunny location, as they need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day to grow healthy and strong. A spot with partial afternoon shade can also be beneficial, especially in hotter climates.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Baby's Breath?
Gardening Gloves
To ensure safety and cleanliness while handling the soil and the plant.
Shovel or Spade
Used for digging a hole in the ground and removing the plant from its original location.
Garden Trowel
Ideal for working in smaller areas and relocating smaller plants.
Watering Can or Hose
Needed for watering the plant before and after the transplant.
Organic Compost
A nutrient-rich material that will boost the health of the baby's breath plant.
Mulch
Helps to maintain the moisture in the soil after relocating the plant.
How Do You Remove Baby's Breath from the Soil?
Step1 Digging
Use a spade or shovel to dig a hole in your selected location. The hole should be twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball of your baby's breath plant.
Step2 Placing the Plant
Place the baby's breath plant in the hole, ensuring that it is standing upright. Take care to make sure the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil.
Step3 Backfilling
With your hands or a small shovel, fill the hole with the soil, ensuring no air pockets are left which can cause roots to dry out.
Step4 Applying Compost
Apply organic compost around the plant. Compost adds necessary nutrients to the soil and offers essential support for growth.
Step5 Watering
Water the baby's breath plant generously to settle the soil around the plant.
Step6 Mulching
Finally, cover the soil around your baby's breath plant with mulch. This helps the soil retain moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Baby's Breath
Step1 Digging
Use a spade or shovel to dig a hole in your selected location. The hole should be twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball of your baby's breath plant.
Step2 Placing the Plant
Place the baby's breath plant in the hole, ensuring that it is standing upright. Take care to make sure the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil.
Step3 Backfilling
With your hands or a small shovel, fill the hole with the soil, ensuring no air pockets are left which can cause roots to dry out.
Step4 Applying Compost
Apply organic compost around the plant. Compost adds necessary nutrients to the soil and offers essential support for growth.
Step5 Watering
Water the baby's breath plant generously to settle the soil around the plant.
Step6 Mulching
Finally, cover the soil around your baby's breath plant with mulch. This helps the soil retain moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.
How Do You Care For Baby's Breath After Transplanting?
Watering
After the transplant, make sure to keep the soil moist, but avoid overwatering. This will provide hydration to the roots and help them establish in the new location.
Mulching
Mulching should be maintained to keep the soil cool and prevent the growth of weeds. Add more mulch as it decomposes or gets displaced.
Pruning
Once the baby's breath plant has settled, it is crucial to prune regularly to ensure its healthy growth. Eliminate dead or overcrowded branches to allow the plant to get more air and sunlight.
Observation
Keep an eye on your baby's breath plant for a few weeks after the transplant. Look for indications of diseases like yellowing of leaves or stunted growth. If observed, take appropriate action immediately.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Baby's Breath Transplantation.
When is the optimal time to transplant baby's breath?
The optimal time to transplant baby's breath is from mid-spring to mid-summer. This provides optimum growing conditions for your plant.
What should I consider regarding spacing when transplanting baby's breath?
It's important to ensure each baby's breath is 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) apart. This allows ample room for growth and ensures healthy development.
How should I prepare the hole for transplanting baby's breath?
The hole should be about twice the size of the root ball of the baby's breath to ensure it fits comfortably and has room to establish.
Should I water baby's breath immediately after transplanting?
Yes, you should. Watering baby's breath immediately after transplanting helps to settle the soil and provides hydration to the plant that's adapting to a new environment.
What type of soil should I use when transplanting baby's breath?
The baby's breath likes well-drained, light, and slightly acidic soil. Adding compost or organic matter to the soil can also enhance its condition.
What happens if my transplanted baby's breath wilts?
Wilting can often be a stress response to transplantation. Maintain consistent watering without overwatering and your baby's breath should recover in a few days.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted baby's breath turning yellow?
Yellow leaves could be a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Make sure the soil is well-drained and you're not watering baby's breath too excessively.
How deep should I plant the baby's breath?
The baby's breath should be planted at the same depth it was in its original pot. Planting too deep could affect its development and overall health.
What should I do if the baby's breath shows slow or stunted growth?
Slow or stunted growth could be due to insufficient light, poor soil quality, or spacing issues. Consider addressing these aspects for healthier baby's breath growth.
How can I prevent disease occurrence in transplanted baby's breath?
Avoid overwatering, ensure proper spacing, and regular inspection for signs of disease can help prevent disease in your transplanted baby's breath. Healthy plant care is the key!
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