If you have never eaten vine tendrils, you are not alone. I lived in Tuscany for many years, and never heard of tenerumi, the vine tendrils of the cucuzza
plant. In fact, I had never heard of cucuzza. But here in Sicily, cucuzza is a common summer vegetable, a kind of thin pale green zucchina often of obscenely long length. Relatively tasteless, they are the subject of a Sicilian proverb: Falla come vuoi, sempre cucuzza è. (However you cook it, it’s still just squash.)
At the weekly farmer’s market in Modica, Sicily, I found freshly cut tenerumi, 
vine tendrils and leaves of the cucuzza plant. Though I had eaten them a few times, and enjoyed their pleasantly nutty taste with a slightly bitter edge, I’d never cooked them myself. But I was feeling extravagant, so plunked down my 1 euro and 50 cents, gambling on making something good out of a couple of bunches.
The vendor suggested that I boil them and then dress them with olive oil, a classically simple cooking method used for many Sicilian greens- I suspect if you use excellent olive oil, it would make even cooked grass taste good. But I wanted more info, so I phoned Emanuele’s sister Elisa for further advice. It just so happened that her sister Nella was visiting, and as I was jotting down the cooking instructions, Nella disagreed, and took over the phone, so I ended up combining their advice into a final recipe.
The recipe belowmakes tenerumi cooked greens, or you can then continue, as I did, and make tenerumi soup with pasta and greens.
Tenerumi Sicilian Greens
Ingredients
- 1 colander full (about 2 lb, 1 kilo)cleaned tenerumi
- ¾ lb. (300 grams)fresh ripe tomatoes
- 1garlic clove
- 4 TBextra-virgin olive oil
- Fresh basil
- Hot red pepper (optional)
Cooking Directions
- Snap off the leaves, tender stems and tendrils, discarding any tough stems and overly large or yellow leaves, and put them in a basin filled with water and wash thoroughly.
- If you find a few tiny underdeveloped cucuzze, break them in half and add those to the basin.
- Change the water a couple of times to make sure there is no grit left in the leaves.
- Pile the washed tenerumi in a colander.
- Place a large pot of water to boil.
- Place the tomatoes in the boiling water for a minute, then take them out and place them in cold water so that they will now be easy to peel.
- Add some salt to the boiling water, put in the tenerumi, cover and simmer until almost tender but still bright green in color.
- Meanwhile, in another pot, sauté the garlic clove in the olive oil, then discard the clove.
- Peel the tomatoes, cut into small pieces, and add to the oil.
- Add the optional hot pepper if you want a piccante touch.
- Take the cooked greens out of the pot but save the cooking water – I do this by taking out clumps of greens with tongs, and plopping them on a big cutting board.
- Roughly chop the tenerumi and add them to the sautè pot.
- Cook until tomatoes are soft, adding a few tablespoons of cooking water.
- Stir in a few basil leaves, and salt to taste.
- Serve as a side dish tenerumi greens – sop up the oil and juice with thick crusty bread and you have a good summer lunch.
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As an avid culinary enthusiast with a deep passion for exploring and understanding regional cuisines, particularly those of Italy, I find the world of gastronomy to be an endlessly fascinating journey. Having spent an extensive period in Tuscany, where the culinary landscape is rich and diverse, I am well-versed in various Italian ingredients and cooking techniques. My immersion in the Tuscan culinary tradition has provided me with a solid foundation, and my inquisitive nature has driven me to continually expand my knowledge.
Now, let's delve into the intriguing article that revolves around an unfamiliar yet enticing ingredient—tenerumi, the vine tendrils of the cucuzza plant. The author's narrative takes us to Sicily, where cucuzza is a common summer vegetable. The article unfolds with the discovery of freshly cut tenerumi at a local farmer's market in Modica, Sicily. The author's decision to experiment with this ingredient reflects a culinary curiosity that resonates with my own approach to discovering new flavors.
The Sicilian proverb mentioned, "Falla come vuoi, sempre cucuzza è" (However you cook it, it’s still just squash), sheds light on the perceived simplicity and perhaps the culinary challenge associated with cucuzza. This proverb encapsulates the essence of the ingredient and sets the stage for the culinary exploration that follows.
The cooking advice provided by the vendor, advocating boiling tenerumi and dressing it with olive oil, aligns with the simplicity often found in traditional Italian recipes. The emphasis on using excellent olive oil, a hallmark of Mediterranean cuisine, underscores the significance of quality ingredients in Italian cooking.
The article takes an interesting turn with a phone call to Emanuele’s sister Elisa for additional advice, bringing familial and regional nuances to the culinary journey. The involvement of another sister, Nella, introduces a dynamic element, showcasing the diversity of opinions and approaches even within a family.
The recipe for Tenerumi Sicilian Greens is then presented, detailing the process from cleaning the tenerumi to the final presentation. The inclusion of fresh ripe tomatoes, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, basil, and optional hot red pepper highlights the Mediterranean flavor profile, combining simplicity with the vibrancy of fresh produce.
The step-by-step cooking directions provide a clear guide for preparing the tenerumi, emphasizing the importance of cleaning, boiling, and sautéing to enhance the flavors. The option to use the cooking water to maintain the essence of the greens showcases a resourceful approach to cooking.
In conclusion, this culinary exploration of tenerumi reflects not only the author's personal journey but also the richness of Sicilian gastronomy. The article captures the essence of discovering and embracing unfamiliar ingredients, blending traditional wisdom with personal experiences to create a delightful dish that embodies the flavors of Sicily. If you've never ventured into the world of vine tendrils, this article serves as an invitation to explore the culinary diversity that regional Italian cuisine has to offer.
